By Michael Webber
There are on the market different kinds of dog collars, and a dog owner sometimes does not know what to choose, because each collar has a different impact on the dog’s neck. So you have to be well aware of the collar type which fits best your dog, and of course, which also satisfies your quality requirements. Here are some collar types which are recommended for your dogs.
Simple buckle collar
It is a simple belt, tied to the dog’s neck, having a metal buckle. Made of nylon or leather, it may be adjustable. It can be used as a simple collar, in order to tie your dog, or it may be an identification collar (for the municipal license, range medal, etc.). If you use this collar to educate or to train your dog, it may cause an opposition reaction from the dog (pull – pull, push – push). Therefore this collar can’t be used at all for education or obedience training, because there are no means of applying a correction using the collar (a slight collar stroke), without the automatic opposition of the dog. Besides, you can hurt your elbow or your shoulders if you use it with a large dog.
Adjustable “quick release” collar
This collar type is the most recommended for puppies because it can be well adjusted on a growing puppy’s neck. It is made of nylon, with a plastic buckle. But, as well as the simple buckle collar, it can’t be used for obedience training. Break away collar
It is a special collar, which breaks when it is hit. It was invented as a result of a dog’s death, whose collar did not break, even if the dog was hanging. It is recommended when you allow your dog running free in the back yard, without being supervised. Conventional strangulation collar - Sliding collar
Also called “choker”, this collar is used the most frequently for dogs. A study made in Germany proved that this type of collar causes the wounding of the neck, of the spinal column, as well as of the throat, if it is not used properly (which means in 95 per cent of the cases!). Since it is not used for obedience training, but as a preventive measure, this collar can’t be used for all kind of dogs, neither by all kinds of persons. It is actually a chain, with a sort of ring at each end. The collar slides into one of the rings at each end.
The collar slides into one of the rings, making the shape of a “P”. The leash is attached to the ring at the end of the “P”, that is why the collar might slide. Take into account that if your dog walks on your left, the collar does have the form of a “P”. But if the dog walks on your right, the collar must form a “Q”. When the collar is attached to the second ring (the still ring), no sliding of the collar is allowed.
This kind of collar provokes a complete strangulation of the dog. A lot of dogs even died. You must never leave this type of collar at the dog’s neck if it is alone, outdoors or in a kennel, as an accident may occur very quickly.
If the chain is large enough, it can slide less easily, so the collar is less effective. If the chain is soft enough, the correction will be more effective. The adjustment must be perfect if you want an efficient correction, by sliding the chain. A too short or a too long collar won’t correct conveniently the dog and there will appear the danger of a wounding for the dog or even for the person who holds the leash.
Nylon holding collar
These collars are usually used for conformation exhibitions. They are used in the same way as the conventional strangulation collars, very easily. Martingale type collar
These collars are a variation of the strangulation collar. They are effective for a simple, quick and precise correction of the dog, if it is well adjusted.
The adjustment round the dog’s neck is important if you want an efficient dog collar. It is recommended for puppies and adult dogs, for any kind of education or obedience training.
Martingale leash
It is an exhibition leash for small dogs.
Prong or pinch collar
This collar is used for the same reasons as the conventional strangulation collar. It is used to correct the dog, exerting an equal pressure on the whole surface of the neck. If it is well adjusted, this collar doesn’t pinch the skin and doesn’t hurt the animal. The pinch - prong collar is actually much more secure when it is used, than a strangulation collar. A study made in Germany proved that the injuries on the neck, on the back and in the throat are less, when it is used the pinch collar instead of a strangulation one. This type of collar is usually used for dogs which pull the leash, which refuse a usual correction with the strangulation collar or for people who are not able to control a very strong dog. This collar is used for dog obedience training and it must be used correctly. It must never be used for a puppy.
Dog halter
The dog halter is often used for the dogs which pull the leash. It can be used as the horse halter, but it is usually applied near the eyes, so that it is very uncomfortable for most of the dogs. This halter is not a muzzle and in order to be effective it must be used together with a collar. Harness
Some people use the harness in order to stop the dog pulling the leash. It is a contradictory use, because a harness is made for pulling. These are the most popular dog collars. Nowadays there are more advanced dog collars, like magnetic or electronic ones, but this subject should be treated separately.
Michael Webber makes it quick and easy for anyone to train their dog and keep them in peak condition. Learn the 7 essential steps to a happy healthy dog for life. To receive your free Dog training and health membership Visit: http://www.free-dog-books.com
Thursday, January 18, 2007
Saturday, January 6, 2007
Sit Stay Fetch - 12 Essential Commands Every Dog Should Know
By Lee Tuan James
Have you taught your dog basic obedience commands like sit, stay or fetch yet?
Many dog owners know the importance of teaching dog commands to communicate and train their dogs in proper behavior but with so many different commands, which are the truly important and effective ones to know?
Well, here are essentially 12 dog commands that we believe your dog need to know to get along happily with you and the rest of the world.
[Come]
This is the first and most important command in your dog's command repertoire. Usually taught together with his/her name, it's a command that you will use actively to recall your dog back to you if he/she breaks free from the leash or is running around disturbing other people in the park.
[Sit]
This is one of the easiest commands to teach, and also one of the most useful especially to control your dog from getting too excited while you are preparing its meal. Dogs who understand the "Sit" command are easier to manage and are also less likely to misbehave like jumping on people, chasing animals or fighting with other dogs.
[Stay]
Often used in combination with commands "sit" or "down," the command "stay" is useful to keep your dog out of harms way should he/she approach something it's not suppose to or attempting to run across a busy street. Not the easiest command for dogs as sometimes their curiosity and animal instinct might take over instead of staying put when told.
[Wait]
Different from the "Stay" command which is more often use to keep your dog away from danger, the "Wait" command is more of a obedience command to keep your dog in check, letting him/her know he/she has to wait till your next command. Commonly use on dogs that have a habit of rushing through doors or pull ahead on a leash.
[Down]
Unlike the "sit" command, the "down" command means your dog goes down on his/her stomach. This command is an essential part of doggy etiquette. It's also more comfortable than a sitting position when you want your dog wait for you for more than a minute or two.
[Stand]
This command tells your dog to stop moving and be still. It's useful for when you are having a veterinarian examining him/her over or when you are bathing and grooming him/her.
[Okay]
The "Okay" command is use to release your dog from a previous command you have given earlier. For example, your dog is now free to walk through the open door after you had early given the "Wait" command.
[No]
Depending on the situation, the "No" is usually use to discourage or break up undesirable behavior such as chewing, biting or jumping. This is an important command that you should teach your puppy from the beginning.
[Off]
The "Off" command is useful to teach your dog to get off that expensive sofa or your bed and is also applicable for telling them to stop jumping on you or other people.
[Leave It]
Dogs are inquisitive animals and sometimes give in to their instinct to explore things that appeal to their senses. The "Leave It" command is perfect to stop dogs that fancies poop eating or having a fetish chewing habit to chew everything around the house.
[Drop It]
The "Drop It" command is necessary to get your dog drop whatever it is in their mouth especially items like your expensive leather shoe or unknown substances that might be potentially harmful. This command is also useful when you start teaching your dog how to "Fetch".
[Heel]
"Heel" simply means that your dog will walk on your left without lagging behind or running ahead of you. This is extremely useful for your dog to understand this command to prevent him/her pulling you on the leash while going for walks. This command becomes all the more necessary if you have a large dog.
Knowing these 12 voice commands will give you the basic fundamentals to having a well-manner dog in your every day life.
If you are interested to learn how to execute these commands correctly and effectively, read the review of a highly rated, illustrated dog training bestseller titled Sit Stay Fetch whereby Daniel, a certified expert dog trainer will teach and guide you Step-by-Step all the basic 12 commands and many other more... to having a well-behaved dog!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lee_Tuan_James
Have you taught your dog basic obedience commands like sit, stay or fetch yet?
Many dog owners know the importance of teaching dog commands to communicate and train their dogs in proper behavior but with so many different commands, which are the truly important and effective ones to know?
Well, here are essentially 12 dog commands that we believe your dog need to know to get along happily with you and the rest of the world.
[Come]
This is the first and most important command in your dog's command repertoire. Usually taught together with his/her name, it's a command that you will use actively to recall your dog back to you if he/she breaks free from the leash or is running around disturbing other people in the park.
[Sit]
This is one of the easiest commands to teach, and also one of the most useful especially to control your dog from getting too excited while you are preparing its meal. Dogs who understand the "Sit" command are easier to manage and are also less likely to misbehave like jumping on people, chasing animals or fighting with other dogs.
[Stay]
Often used in combination with commands "sit" or "down," the command "stay" is useful to keep your dog out of harms way should he/she approach something it's not suppose to or attempting to run across a busy street. Not the easiest command for dogs as sometimes their curiosity and animal instinct might take over instead of staying put when told.
[Wait]
Different from the "Stay" command which is more often use to keep your dog away from danger, the "Wait" command is more of a obedience command to keep your dog in check, letting him/her know he/she has to wait till your next command. Commonly use on dogs that have a habit of rushing through doors or pull ahead on a leash.
[Down]
Unlike the "sit" command, the "down" command means your dog goes down on his/her stomach. This command is an essential part of doggy etiquette. It's also more comfortable than a sitting position when you want your dog wait for you for more than a minute or two.
[Stand]
This command tells your dog to stop moving and be still. It's useful for when you are having a veterinarian examining him/her over or when you are bathing and grooming him/her.
[Okay]
The "Okay" command is use to release your dog from a previous command you have given earlier. For example, your dog is now free to walk through the open door after you had early given the "Wait" command.
[No]
Depending on the situation, the "No" is usually use to discourage or break up undesirable behavior such as chewing, biting or jumping. This is an important command that you should teach your puppy from the beginning.
[Off]
The "Off" command is useful to teach your dog to get off that expensive sofa or your bed and is also applicable for telling them to stop jumping on you or other people.
[Leave It]
Dogs are inquisitive animals and sometimes give in to their instinct to explore things that appeal to their senses. The "Leave It" command is perfect to stop dogs that fancies poop eating or having a fetish chewing habit to chew everything around the house.
[Drop It]
The "Drop It" command is necessary to get your dog drop whatever it is in their mouth especially items like your expensive leather shoe or unknown substances that might be potentially harmful. This command is also useful when you start teaching your dog how to "Fetch".
[Heel]
"Heel" simply means that your dog will walk on your left without lagging behind or running ahead of you. This is extremely useful for your dog to understand this command to prevent him/her pulling you on the leash while going for walks. This command becomes all the more necessary if you have a large dog.
Knowing these 12 voice commands will give you the basic fundamentals to having a well-manner dog in your every day life.
If you are interested to learn how to execute these commands correctly and effectively, read the review of a highly rated, illustrated dog training bestseller titled Sit Stay Fetch whereby Daniel, a certified expert dog trainer will teach and guide you Step-by-Step all the basic 12 commands and many other more... to having a well-behaved dog!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lee_Tuan_James
Tuesday, January 2, 2007
Don't Bite-Teaching your Puppy Bite Inhibition
By Kevin Lynch
Bite Inhibition is one of the most important things your puppy must learn to become a well-trained, respectable dog. Bite inhibition is a learned response in which your dog will consciously inhibit the full force of his biting ability. Without learning bite inhibition a dog can severely injure or even possibly kill another dog or even a child.
Puppies learn bite inhibition during the socialization of nursing and playing. If a puppy bites while nursing the mother dog will get up and walk away. If the puppy bites too hard while playing with his littermates, the bitten puppy will yelp and stop playing with the biting puppy. This teaches the puppy that all playing must stop if he bites too hard.
A puppy should learn bite inhibition by the time he is four and a half months of age. Since many puppies are taken from their mothers and other littermates before this time, it becomes necessary for the new owners to take over the role of teaching bite inhibition.
When you are teaching your puppy bite inhibition treat him as his mother and his littermates would. When he bites too hard, get up and walk away, make sure he knows that when he bites too hard all play must stop.
Some ideas you can use to teach bite inhibition are
· Sit down and start playing with your puppy. Bring his attention to your hands. When your puppy starts to bite your hands too hard say “Ow” firmly and stop playing and stop all interaction. Do not look at your puppy but avert your eyes to the side away from your pup. He needs to know that you are serious about stopping the play.
· Make sure that your response is short and firm. If you whine or wince your puppy may think that you are still playing and you have defeated your purpose.
· After some time has passed, face your pup again and offer your hand if he tries to bite again, repeat the process.
· If your puppy is just nipping at you or your clothes you can offer a toy to chew on. If he is not interested in the toy but keeps on nipping, you should withdraw all attention. You can even walk away.
As you practice this, your puppy should be using less and less pressure as he is playing with you. Your first goal should be to inhibit the force of his bite and then to reduce the frequency of his bite. If he is never allowed to use even a light bite, when faced with a situation of stress he will probably react with a overly strong bite and could hurt someone unintentionally.
Bite Inhibition is an important part of training and socializing your dog. It is easier to teach a puppy bite inhibition but even older dogs can learn with some patience and good training.
Kevin Lynch owns Puppy-n-Dog-Secrets.com and offers you more information on training your puppy plus a free newsletter full of all kinds of puppy and dog info at Dog Training.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kevin_Lynch
Bite Inhibition is one of the most important things your puppy must learn to become a well-trained, respectable dog. Bite inhibition is a learned response in which your dog will consciously inhibit the full force of his biting ability. Without learning bite inhibition a dog can severely injure or even possibly kill another dog or even a child.
Puppies learn bite inhibition during the socialization of nursing and playing. If a puppy bites while nursing the mother dog will get up and walk away. If the puppy bites too hard while playing with his littermates, the bitten puppy will yelp and stop playing with the biting puppy. This teaches the puppy that all playing must stop if he bites too hard.
A puppy should learn bite inhibition by the time he is four and a half months of age. Since many puppies are taken from their mothers and other littermates before this time, it becomes necessary for the new owners to take over the role of teaching bite inhibition.
When you are teaching your puppy bite inhibition treat him as his mother and his littermates would. When he bites too hard, get up and walk away, make sure he knows that when he bites too hard all play must stop.
Some ideas you can use to teach bite inhibition are
· Sit down and start playing with your puppy. Bring his attention to your hands. When your puppy starts to bite your hands too hard say “Ow” firmly and stop playing and stop all interaction. Do not look at your puppy but avert your eyes to the side away from your pup. He needs to know that you are serious about stopping the play.
· Make sure that your response is short and firm. If you whine or wince your puppy may think that you are still playing and you have defeated your purpose.
· After some time has passed, face your pup again and offer your hand if he tries to bite again, repeat the process.
· If your puppy is just nipping at you or your clothes you can offer a toy to chew on. If he is not interested in the toy but keeps on nipping, you should withdraw all attention. You can even walk away.
As you practice this, your puppy should be using less and less pressure as he is playing with you. Your first goal should be to inhibit the force of his bite and then to reduce the frequency of his bite. If he is never allowed to use even a light bite, when faced with a situation of stress he will probably react with a overly strong bite and could hurt someone unintentionally.
Bite Inhibition is an important part of training and socializing your dog. It is easier to teach a puppy bite inhibition but even older dogs can learn with some patience and good training.
Kevin Lynch owns Puppy-n-Dog-Secrets.com and offers you more information on training your puppy plus a free newsletter full of all kinds of puppy and dog info at Dog Training.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kevin_Lynch
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