Author: Susan Eaton
Dogs are likely characters to enjoy the summer as much as humans. They like to sunbathe, swim, camp and even hike. Many factors of summer, especially the element of heat, can affect dogs like it does us. It can be devastating. Following tips to keep your dog safe and comfortable in the summer is much like the tips we follow for ourselves. Below are some basic tips to keep your dog safe.
-Always have plenty of clean, fresh water available to prevent dehydration.
-If the air quality index is unsafe for you, it is unsafe for your pet. Watch your pet closely while he is outdoors.
-If your dog stays outside while you are at work, always have plenty of water available, shelter from the sun, and shelter from summertime storms.
-If possible, a doggie door is the ultimate solution for your pet. He can escape into the house or garage if it gets unbearably hot and humid or if it is thundering and lightening. However, remember to make sure your doggie door is secure so that no one other than your pet can go through it.
-If you have a pool, protect your dog just as you would children from entering the pool when you are not around. Dogs can drown just as easily as children or even adults.
-Always keep an eye on your dog when he is swimming. Place some sort of bright article or flag at the steps of your pool high enough so that your pet can see it. Remember, they hold their head up when doggie paddling. This flag or article of clothing visually indicates to them where the steps are. When they swim they sometimes get tired and even exhausted and can become disoriented and anxious. Train them to swim towards the article in which you placed as the direction towards the steps, just in case they happen to get in the pool when you are not around. This could save their life.
-When hiking with your pet take along water for them and yourself. Stop on occasion to rest. When is the best time to stop? Follow your dog’s body language and your instincts. If he slows down significantly or lags behind… it is time for a break. If the dog is panting excessively, take a break. Panting is their way of lowering their body temperature. They do not have sweat glands like we do. Also, dogs can get muscle spasms just as we can from being over-heated or exhausted.
-To keep your pet safe at night, purchase a Pet Blinkie. Pet Blinkies are vibrant, multi-color lights that attach easily to a collar, leash or harness. Pet Blinkies are waterproof and visible up to 1/2 mile away.
-Take care of your pet during the summer just as you would yourself and the rest of your family.
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Keep your Pet Safe
Author: Susan Eaton
Dogs are likely characters to enjoy the summer as much as humans. They like to sunbathe, swim, camp and even hike. Many factors of summer, especially the element of heat, can affect dogs like it does us. It can be devastating. Following tips to keep your dog safe and comfortable in the summer is much like the tips we follow for ourselves. Below are some basic tips to keep your dog safe.
-Always have plenty of clean, fresh water available to prevent dehydration.
-If the air quality index is unsafe for you, it is unsafe for your pet. Watch your pet closely while he is outdoors.
-If your dog stays outside while you are at work, always have plenty of water available, shelter from the sun, and shelter from summertime storms.
-If possible, a doggie door is the ultimate solution for your pet. He can escape into the house or garage if it gets unbearably hot and humid or if it is thundering and lightening. However, remember to make sure your doggie door is secure so that no one other than your pet can go through it.
-If you have a pool, protect your dog just as you would children from entering the pool when you are not around. Dogs can drown just as easily as children or even adults.
-Always keep an eye on your dog when he is swimming. Place some sort of bright article or flag at the steps of your pool high enough so that your pet can see it. Remember, they hold their head up when doggie paddling. This flag or article of clothing visually indicates to them where the steps are. When they swim they sometimes get tired and even exhausted and can become disoriented and anxious. Train them to swim towards the article in which you placed as the direction towards the steps, just in case they happen to get in the pool when you are not around. This could save their life.
-When hiking with your pet take along water for them and yourself. Stop on occasion to rest. When is the best time to stop? Follow your dog’s body language and your instincts. If he slows down significantly or lags behind… it is time for a break. If the dog is panting excessively, take a break. Panting is their way of lowering their body temperature. They do not have sweat glands like we do. Also, dogs can get muscle spasms just as we can from being over-heated or exhausted.
-To keep your pet safe at night, purchase a Pet Blinkie. Pet Blinkies are vibrant, multi-color lights that attach easily to a collar, leash or harness. Pet Blinkies are waterproof and visible up to 1/2 mile away.
-Take care of your pet during the summer just as you would yourself and the rest of your family.
Dogs are likely characters to enjoy the summer as much as humans. They like to sunbathe, swim, camp and even hike. Many factors of summer, especially the element of heat, can affect dogs like it does us. It can be devastating. Following tips to keep your dog safe and comfortable in the summer is much like the tips we follow for ourselves. Below are some basic tips to keep your dog safe.
-Always have plenty of clean, fresh water available to prevent dehydration.
-If the air quality index is unsafe for you, it is unsafe for your pet. Watch your pet closely while he is outdoors.
-If your dog stays outside while you are at work, always have plenty of water available, shelter from the sun, and shelter from summertime storms.
-If possible, a doggie door is the ultimate solution for your pet. He can escape into the house or garage if it gets unbearably hot and humid or if it is thundering and lightening. However, remember to make sure your doggie door is secure so that no one other than your pet can go through it.
-If you have a pool, protect your dog just as you would children from entering the pool when you are not around. Dogs can drown just as easily as children or even adults.
-Always keep an eye on your dog when he is swimming. Place some sort of bright article or flag at the steps of your pool high enough so that your pet can see it. Remember, they hold their head up when doggie paddling. This flag or article of clothing visually indicates to them where the steps are. When they swim they sometimes get tired and even exhausted and can become disoriented and anxious. Train them to swim towards the article in which you placed as the direction towards the steps, just in case they happen to get in the pool when you are not around. This could save their life.
-When hiking with your pet take along water for them and yourself. Stop on occasion to rest. When is the best time to stop? Follow your dog’s body language and your instincts. If he slows down significantly or lags behind… it is time for a break. If the dog is panting excessively, take a break. Panting is their way of lowering their body temperature. They do not have sweat glands like we do. Also, dogs can get muscle spasms just as we can from being over-heated or exhausted.
-To keep your pet safe at night, purchase a Pet Blinkie. Pet Blinkies are vibrant, multi-color lights that attach easily to a collar, leash or harness. Pet Blinkies are waterproof and visible up to 1/2 mile away.
-Take care of your pet during the summer just as you would yourself and the rest of your family.
Wednesday, March 14, 2007
Canine Body Language 101
By Lex Fredericks
Understanding basic canine behavior is our passport into mutually terrific relationships with our dogs. Knowing how to identify basic canine body language, is step one in removing the hindrance of misunderstanding. Different breeds have different body language. For example, Akitas hold their tails high and always look confident, Greyhounds tuck their tail between their legs and always look fearful and Boxers have no tails! The same goes for ears and how they can differ in each breed. This why it’s important to learn to identify all indicators of canine emotion and try to get a general idea of overall body language and not be thwarted by your Malamute’s high tail or you’re the fact that you can’t see your Sheepdog’s eyes or ears!
A relaxed dog:
has his mouth slightly open and his tongue lolling. His ears are not pushed forward or flattened back, they are in a neutral position The tail is also held at a neutral position and his body is relaxed and not bristling, stiff or recoiling in any way. This is your dog’s standard position and you know it better then me!
An alert dog:
Holds his ears are forward and they may twitch a little. The mouth is pursed and the rest of the face are smooth. The tail is held horizontally but is not stiff or bristling and may wag slowly from side to side. The eyes are wide and focused on the interesting thing.
A confidently aggressive dog:
Is stiff and his whole body is shifted forwards. The tail is stiff, bristled and held high and may quiver or vibrate slightly. His hackles are raised, ears are pushed forward and his eyes are dilated and staring. Forehead and nose are wrinkled and lips are curled to form a tall snarl. The mouth is C-shaped and the corners of the mouth are forward displaying his teeth.
A fearfully aggressive dog:
Lowers his body, raises his hackles and tucks in his tail, holding it stiff and still. His ears are flattened and the eyes are dilated. The nose is wrinkled and the teeth may be bared, But the corners of the mouth are pulled back into a grimace.
A fearful and/or submissive dog:
Has his body lowered and may have a paw raised. His tail is down and may wag slightly, his ears are back and forehead is smooth. Eye contact is short and indirect and dog may lick at air or the perceived threat. If fear or submission escalate, the dog may roll into his back and expose his throat and belly. Submission can occur without fear and a submissive dog is not always fearful.
A playful dog:
Has his bum up in the air and front paws on the ground! This is called a play bow and is unmistakable. The tail is up and wagging broadly, the ears are up and the mouth is relaxed and possibly opened wide and smiling. Many dogs bark or growl in this position and all vocalizations made whilst in a play bow are friendly and an invitation to play.
In the case of different breeds having different attributes, We can piece together the dogs message by learning their visual signals Independently and piecing them together.
Basic elements of dog body language:
Ears:
- Pulled back or flattened are either expressing fear or submission
- Ears held at side of head in an “airplane” position are expressing confusion and uncertainty
- Ears alternately flicking and slightly forwards and then flattened indicate investigation and interest
- Ears forward signify interest or confidence
- Ears in the neutral position are relaxed
Eyes:
- A direct stare indicates a challenge. Dominance and confidence
- Eyes averted signify fear, evasion or submission
- Blinking is a “calming signal” which I will go more into below
- Looking at you through a corner of the eye is often a coy invitation to play or solicit your attention without being rude.
- When pupils are large, this indicates arousal.
Mouth:
- Relaxed and panting is neutral
- A C-shaped tall snarl is offensive aggression
- Corners of mouth pulled back indicates fear or submission
- Corners of mouth pulled back and teeth exposed indicates fearful aggression and or defensiveness
- Mouth pursed and possibly a “round” vocalization expresses playfulness
- Mouth pursed with silence or a low growl equals investigation, uncertainty or possible defensiveness
- Front teeth bared in a “smile” with wrinkled nose accompanied by sneezing or head bowing is submission and friendliness
Tail:
- Tail up and curved around back-dominance
- Tail horizontal but not stiff-relaxed investigation
- Tail horizontal and slightly stiff- caution
- Tail held relaxed- neutral
- Tail pulled sharply down and possibly wagging slightly- distress or discomfort
- Tail pulled down- insecurity
- Tail tucked between legs- fear or submission
- Bristling hair on tail- threatening
- Bristling hair on only tip of tail- stress
- A sharp bend in tail- dominance and/or aggression
- A slight wag-a pacifying submissive gesture
- A broad wag- friendliness or play
- A wild wagging of the tail- I like you or I’m interested
- A broad wag that actually moves the hips- respective submission
- A slow wag- confusion or uncertainty
Full body language:
Stiffness, bristling and shifting forward signifies dominance and/or aggression
Hair bristling only on shoulders indicates nervousness
Muzzle nudging- a request from beta to alpha, often with licking
Dog sits and allows other dog to sniff- a calming signal. A request for peaceful behavior
Exposing throat and belly- fear and/or submission.
Standing over another dog, putting paw or head on other dog’s back- assertion of dominance
Shoulder bumping- dominance
Turning side to other dog- admission of beta status
Circling indicates a conflict.
Freezing signifies a conflict, fear, concern or worry.
Raising one paw- anxiety and insecurity
Mounting- dominance. Mounting is nonsexual unless between an unaltered male and female.
Rolling on back and rubbing with nose or shoulders- I’m enjoying myself!
Crouching with front legs out and rear and tail up- let’s play!
Calming Signals:
Calming signals are a dog’s way of saying “I’m sensing some disarray here, but I don’t want any trouble. Let’s just be peaceful.” Calming signals include yawning, turning away, blinking, sniffing the ground, grooming, sitting, urinating, licking, sniffing air, lifting a paw, scratching, Play bow, stretching, sneezing or other casual behaviors. If your dog exhibits calming signals while you’re training her, she’s saying she’s had enough and wants you to relent.
Play Behavior:
Barking, growling, nipping, chasing, stalking, grabbing around the neck, jaw wrestling, body slamming, grabbing ears and tails, falling and rolling, somersaults, “keep away” are all normal play/mock-fighting behaviors for dogs. While play occurs, dogs temporarily become equals and even dominant dogs will sometimes lie belly up over and allow submissive dogs to shoulder them, nibble them, wrestle them and behave in a way that wouldn’t typically be tolerated in an alpha/beta relationship.. Sometimes the dominant dog will get fed up a disagreement may ensue. If playing stops and dogs becomes stiff and circle each other, freeze or “face off”, play may have stopped and there may be conflict until the breech of etiquette is resolved. Dog play is mock-fighting and hunting. Keep that in mind and do not assume dogs are fighting when they are only playing.
Rules:
- Dogs making themselves look taller, larger and pointing at the target are dominance signals,
- Dogs making themselves look smaller and turning away are exhibiting submission signals.
- A play bow always means play!
- Frightened dogs are more prone to inflicting serious bites than confident dogs
- Do not console a frightened dog, this reinforces fear. Issue a command and praise the dog for executing it correctly.
Next article: Dog Vocalizations/Canine Verbal Language
Lex Fredericks is a Registered Veterinary Assistant/OTJ Veterinary Nurse and dog trainer who lives in Toronto. She has worked with and trained wolves, big cats, bears and primates for film and originally began learning training dogs and learning about the language of animals at the age of 7 with Hungarian grandfather and horse/dog devotee George Egon Fallus. She currently lives with a Bullmastiff rescued from gang violence, a Presa Canario, a mastiff cross rescued from British Columbia, a rescued wolf hybrid, a rehabilitated feral cat, and cat she and her husband rescued with the Vancouver police. She can be reached at her website, http://www.TorontoDogTraining.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lex_Fredericks
Understanding basic canine behavior is our passport into mutually terrific relationships with our dogs. Knowing how to identify basic canine body language, is step one in removing the hindrance of misunderstanding. Different breeds have different body language. For example, Akitas hold their tails high and always look confident, Greyhounds tuck their tail between their legs and always look fearful and Boxers have no tails! The same goes for ears and how they can differ in each breed. This why it’s important to learn to identify all indicators of canine emotion and try to get a general idea of overall body language and not be thwarted by your Malamute’s high tail or you’re the fact that you can’t see your Sheepdog’s eyes or ears!
A relaxed dog:
has his mouth slightly open and his tongue lolling. His ears are not pushed forward or flattened back, they are in a neutral position The tail is also held at a neutral position and his body is relaxed and not bristling, stiff or recoiling in any way. This is your dog’s standard position and you know it better then me!
An alert dog:
Holds his ears are forward and they may twitch a little. The mouth is pursed and the rest of the face are smooth. The tail is held horizontally but is not stiff or bristling and may wag slowly from side to side. The eyes are wide and focused on the interesting thing.
A confidently aggressive dog:
Is stiff and his whole body is shifted forwards. The tail is stiff, bristled and held high and may quiver or vibrate slightly. His hackles are raised, ears are pushed forward and his eyes are dilated and staring. Forehead and nose are wrinkled and lips are curled to form a tall snarl. The mouth is C-shaped and the corners of the mouth are forward displaying his teeth.
A fearfully aggressive dog:
Lowers his body, raises his hackles and tucks in his tail, holding it stiff and still. His ears are flattened and the eyes are dilated. The nose is wrinkled and the teeth may be bared, But the corners of the mouth are pulled back into a grimace.
A fearful and/or submissive dog:
Has his body lowered and may have a paw raised. His tail is down and may wag slightly, his ears are back and forehead is smooth. Eye contact is short and indirect and dog may lick at air or the perceived threat. If fear or submission escalate, the dog may roll into his back and expose his throat and belly. Submission can occur without fear and a submissive dog is not always fearful.
A playful dog:
Has his bum up in the air and front paws on the ground! This is called a play bow and is unmistakable. The tail is up and wagging broadly, the ears are up and the mouth is relaxed and possibly opened wide and smiling. Many dogs bark or growl in this position and all vocalizations made whilst in a play bow are friendly and an invitation to play.
In the case of different breeds having different attributes, We can piece together the dogs message by learning their visual signals Independently and piecing them together.
Basic elements of dog body language:
Ears:
- Pulled back or flattened are either expressing fear or submission
- Ears held at side of head in an “airplane” position are expressing confusion and uncertainty
- Ears alternately flicking and slightly forwards and then flattened indicate investigation and interest
- Ears forward signify interest or confidence
- Ears in the neutral position are relaxed
Eyes:
- A direct stare indicates a challenge. Dominance and confidence
- Eyes averted signify fear, evasion or submission
- Blinking is a “calming signal” which I will go more into below
- Looking at you through a corner of the eye is often a coy invitation to play or solicit your attention without being rude.
- When pupils are large, this indicates arousal.
Mouth:
- Relaxed and panting is neutral
- A C-shaped tall snarl is offensive aggression
- Corners of mouth pulled back indicates fear or submission
- Corners of mouth pulled back and teeth exposed indicates fearful aggression and or defensiveness
- Mouth pursed and possibly a “round” vocalization expresses playfulness
- Mouth pursed with silence or a low growl equals investigation, uncertainty or possible defensiveness
- Front teeth bared in a “smile” with wrinkled nose accompanied by sneezing or head bowing is submission and friendliness
Tail:
- Tail up and curved around back-dominance
- Tail horizontal but not stiff-relaxed investigation
- Tail horizontal and slightly stiff- caution
- Tail held relaxed- neutral
- Tail pulled sharply down and possibly wagging slightly- distress or discomfort
- Tail pulled down- insecurity
- Tail tucked between legs- fear or submission
- Bristling hair on tail- threatening
- Bristling hair on only tip of tail- stress
- A sharp bend in tail- dominance and/or aggression
- A slight wag-a pacifying submissive gesture
- A broad wag- friendliness or play
- A wild wagging of the tail- I like you or I’m interested
- A broad wag that actually moves the hips- respective submission
- A slow wag- confusion or uncertainty
Full body language:
Stiffness, bristling and shifting forward signifies dominance and/or aggression
Hair bristling only on shoulders indicates nervousness
Muzzle nudging- a request from beta to alpha, often with licking
Dog sits and allows other dog to sniff- a calming signal. A request for peaceful behavior
Exposing throat and belly- fear and/or submission.
Standing over another dog, putting paw or head on other dog’s back- assertion of dominance
Shoulder bumping- dominance
Turning side to other dog- admission of beta status
Circling indicates a conflict.
Freezing signifies a conflict, fear, concern or worry.
Raising one paw- anxiety and insecurity
Mounting- dominance. Mounting is nonsexual unless between an unaltered male and female.
Rolling on back and rubbing with nose or shoulders- I’m enjoying myself!
Crouching with front legs out and rear and tail up- let’s play!
Calming Signals:
Calming signals are a dog’s way of saying “I’m sensing some disarray here, but I don’t want any trouble. Let’s just be peaceful.” Calming signals include yawning, turning away, blinking, sniffing the ground, grooming, sitting, urinating, licking, sniffing air, lifting a paw, scratching, Play bow, stretching, sneezing or other casual behaviors. If your dog exhibits calming signals while you’re training her, she’s saying she’s had enough and wants you to relent.
Play Behavior:
Barking, growling, nipping, chasing, stalking, grabbing around the neck, jaw wrestling, body slamming, grabbing ears and tails, falling and rolling, somersaults, “keep away” are all normal play/mock-fighting behaviors for dogs. While play occurs, dogs temporarily become equals and even dominant dogs will sometimes lie belly up over and allow submissive dogs to shoulder them, nibble them, wrestle them and behave in a way that wouldn’t typically be tolerated in an alpha/beta relationship.. Sometimes the dominant dog will get fed up a disagreement may ensue. If playing stops and dogs becomes stiff and circle each other, freeze or “face off”, play may have stopped and there may be conflict until the breech of etiquette is resolved. Dog play is mock-fighting and hunting. Keep that in mind and do not assume dogs are fighting when they are only playing.
Rules:
- Dogs making themselves look taller, larger and pointing at the target are dominance signals,
- Dogs making themselves look smaller and turning away are exhibiting submission signals.
- A play bow always means play!
- Frightened dogs are more prone to inflicting serious bites than confident dogs
- Do not console a frightened dog, this reinforces fear. Issue a command and praise the dog for executing it correctly.
Next article: Dog Vocalizations/Canine Verbal Language
Lex Fredericks is a Registered Veterinary Assistant/OTJ Veterinary Nurse and dog trainer who lives in Toronto. She has worked with and trained wolves, big cats, bears and primates for film and originally began learning training dogs and learning about the language of animals at the age of 7 with Hungarian grandfather and horse/dog devotee George Egon Fallus. She currently lives with a Bullmastiff rescued from gang violence, a Presa Canario, a mastiff cross rescued from British Columbia, a rescued wolf hybrid, a rehabilitated feral cat, and cat she and her husband rescued with the Vancouver police. She can be reached at her website, http://www.TorontoDogTraining.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lex_Fredericks
Wednesday, February 28, 2007
Stop Dog Food Aggression
By Nick Krueger
If you place your dog’s food down and he growls or snaps at you, this is called food aggression or food guarding. This can have severe effects on your relationship with the dog as well as his relationship towards you and your family.
Oftentimes, this can behavior must be trained out of the animal, or it will continue indefinitely. Dogs have an instinctive need to guard there food. Most times, this doesn’t present itself because the dog trusts his master above all else. Sometimes, though, this instinct surfaces in dogs and can be a hazard to you and your family if left alone. What the dog must learn is that he should not be threatened by you when it is feeding time.
If you are angry or violent in your training habits when teaching your dog about food aggression, then he may have a tendency to become aggressive back, hindering the training process. Hitting or using a leash to pull the dog away from his food during these periods of aggression can make him even more agitated and can become dangerous for both of you.
Food aggression will not go away overnight, but with continued patience and working with the animal, the problem can be resolved. A routine is the best solution to this problem. Using certain stimuli that tell the dog it is time to eat and there is no need to be anxious or nervous is the key. During this routine, ensure that there are not distractions such as kids or other animals in the room. Another animal walking by or a child passing can become an immediate step back while training for food aggression.
As you prepare to feed the dog, tell him to sit. Make him wait for you to place the food down. He must learn that you are the master and he must wait on you. If you can get him to start eating only after a voice command, then that is a great step, although for some it may be asking too much at first. If you are training a puppy, it will be a little easier because as he eats, walk around, pet, and praise him. If he growls, pet him and let him know you are not going to take his food. For a week or two, only work on these steps. For older dogs, try dropping a treat or tidbit for him as a reward – treats that are tastier than his dog food. By doing this, he will learn that people passing him is a good thing.
This is a good starting place. Other steps can be implemented down the road, but this foundation is what you want to build on. By progressing slowly, it will not be long before food aggression is no longer an issue.
Nick Krueger is a review specialist at Reviewica.com. For more information on dog obedience training and related product reviews, please visit: http://dog-obedience-training-reviews.reviewica.com/index.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Nick_Krueger
If you place your dog’s food down and he growls or snaps at you, this is called food aggression or food guarding. This can have severe effects on your relationship with the dog as well as his relationship towards you and your family.
Oftentimes, this can behavior must be trained out of the animal, or it will continue indefinitely. Dogs have an instinctive need to guard there food. Most times, this doesn’t present itself because the dog trusts his master above all else. Sometimes, though, this instinct surfaces in dogs and can be a hazard to you and your family if left alone. What the dog must learn is that he should not be threatened by you when it is feeding time.
If you are angry or violent in your training habits when teaching your dog about food aggression, then he may have a tendency to become aggressive back, hindering the training process. Hitting or using a leash to pull the dog away from his food during these periods of aggression can make him even more agitated and can become dangerous for both of you.
Food aggression will not go away overnight, but with continued patience and working with the animal, the problem can be resolved. A routine is the best solution to this problem. Using certain stimuli that tell the dog it is time to eat and there is no need to be anxious or nervous is the key. During this routine, ensure that there are not distractions such as kids or other animals in the room. Another animal walking by or a child passing can become an immediate step back while training for food aggression.
As you prepare to feed the dog, tell him to sit. Make him wait for you to place the food down. He must learn that you are the master and he must wait on you. If you can get him to start eating only after a voice command, then that is a great step, although for some it may be asking too much at first. If you are training a puppy, it will be a little easier because as he eats, walk around, pet, and praise him. If he growls, pet him and let him know you are not going to take his food. For a week or two, only work on these steps. For older dogs, try dropping a treat or tidbit for him as a reward – treats that are tastier than his dog food. By doing this, he will learn that people passing him is a good thing.
This is a good starting place. Other steps can be implemented down the road, but this foundation is what you want to build on. By progressing slowly, it will not be long before food aggression is no longer an issue.
Nick Krueger is a review specialist at Reviewica.com. For more information on dog obedience training and related product reviews, please visit: http://dog-obedience-training-reviews.reviewica.com/index.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Nick_Krueger
Saturday, February 24, 2007
10 Things You Need To Know About Dog Care
By Greg Finkley
1. If you can listen, they can talk! A dog is substantially cheaper than your car, but they tend to last longer. Spend the time to get to know your dog, understand and accept its moods and habits. You should have your pet for a long time and the time that you spend understanding him or her will be well rewarded. If you know your dog well, the first "off sign" can warn you when your dog is sickening for something.
2. Find an obedience program suited for your dog. There is no single method to train all breeds of dog. all too often the dog is expected to bend to the technique, when the technique should benefit the dog. The purpose of training a dog is to enrich its life, it's pointless bending a dog to your will by threats. The real point is to forge a real bond between you and your pet so that you both want to learn together. Find a class best to your dog, a trainer that takes on just about any dog is no use to man or beast.
3. Teach a dog to use its mouth appropriately. All dogs chew for fun, make sure that they have something appropriate to chew on. It is very cute for a puppy to chew a finger, but essentially you are training the dog that it is acceptable behavior to eat skin. Have two or three toys for a dog to chew on making sure they are robust enough but not to big for their mouths. A dog that has not been taught to chew properly may well eat an electric cable, it is for their safety as much as for your slippers!
4. Do not let your dog dominate your life. All dogs are pack animals and they need to know who is boss. If you do not dominate your dog, then he will feel the need to dominate you. You are top dog and what you say goes, be firm and consistent and do not let your dog rule your life.
5. Amazingly dogs like a fairly stable routine. All dogs need a place to sleep that is their own and it should be in the same place. It is better to feed your dog at the same time each day.
6. Dogs should never eat between meals. Your dog will eat what you give him. As a loving dog owner your dog is part of the family, but you are not doing your dog any favors by feeding him from the table. A healthy diet for your dog means healthy dog treats, rich in health promoting minerals and vitamins, definitely not chocolate or potato chips! A healthy dog will live longer.
7. Keep your dogs confined in a safe place. If a dog is left alone and untethered in a garden or yard, they can react to stimuli, noise or another dog and attack other dogs or run into traffic. Their safety is in your hands. Be aware that there are over fifty plants toxic to dogs (Castor Bean seeds, Cherry Laurel, Dumb Cane, Oleander and many more)
8. Tag your dog clearly. There is nothing at all you can do if pet thieves take your dog, but you can help if your dog is accidentally lost. Many local authorities put down lost dogs.
9. Make sure that you have adequate pet insurance, or can pay to see a vet when the need arises. All dogs will fall sick at some time. Deal with the eventuality sooner rather than later.
10. Never forget that your dog is your sole responsibility, he did not ask for you to choose him. His life, health and safety are literally in your hands.
For more information about Dog Care, vistit Greg Finkley's site http://www.dog-breeds-online.com. If you want a regular dose of precious tips and information about taking care of your dog, be sure to subscribe to "Tail Wagging" at http://www.dog-breeds-online.com/tail-wagging.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Greg_Finkley
1. If you can listen, they can talk! A dog is substantially cheaper than your car, but they tend to last longer. Spend the time to get to know your dog, understand and accept its moods and habits. You should have your pet for a long time and the time that you spend understanding him or her will be well rewarded. If you know your dog well, the first "off sign" can warn you when your dog is sickening for something.
2. Find an obedience program suited for your dog. There is no single method to train all breeds of dog. all too often the dog is expected to bend to the technique, when the technique should benefit the dog. The purpose of training a dog is to enrich its life, it's pointless bending a dog to your will by threats. The real point is to forge a real bond between you and your pet so that you both want to learn together. Find a class best to your dog, a trainer that takes on just about any dog is no use to man or beast.
3. Teach a dog to use its mouth appropriately. All dogs chew for fun, make sure that they have something appropriate to chew on. It is very cute for a puppy to chew a finger, but essentially you are training the dog that it is acceptable behavior to eat skin. Have two or three toys for a dog to chew on making sure they are robust enough but not to big for their mouths. A dog that has not been taught to chew properly may well eat an electric cable, it is for their safety as much as for your slippers!
4. Do not let your dog dominate your life. All dogs are pack animals and they need to know who is boss. If you do not dominate your dog, then he will feel the need to dominate you. You are top dog and what you say goes, be firm and consistent and do not let your dog rule your life.
5. Amazingly dogs like a fairly stable routine. All dogs need a place to sleep that is their own and it should be in the same place. It is better to feed your dog at the same time each day.
6. Dogs should never eat between meals. Your dog will eat what you give him. As a loving dog owner your dog is part of the family, but you are not doing your dog any favors by feeding him from the table. A healthy diet for your dog means healthy dog treats, rich in health promoting minerals and vitamins, definitely not chocolate or potato chips! A healthy dog will live longer.
7. Keep your dogs confined in a safe place. If a dog is left alone and untethered in a garden or yard, they can react to stimuli, noise or another dog and attack other dogs or run into traffic. Their safety is in your hands. Be aware that there are over fifty plants toxic to dogs (Castor Bean seeds, Cherry Laurel, Dumb Cane, Oleander and many more)
8. Tag your dog clearly. There is nothing at all you can do if pet thieves take your dog, but you can help if your dog is accidentally lost. Many local authorities put down lost dogs.
9. Make sure that you have adequate pet insurance, or can pay to see a vet when the need arises. All dogs will fall sick at some time. Deal with the eventuality sooner rather than later.
10. Never forget that your dog is your sole responsibility, he did not ask for you to choose him. His life, health and safety are literally in your hands.
For more information about Dog Care, vistit Greg Finkley's site http://www.dog-breeds-online.com. If you want a regular dose of precious tips and information about taking care of your dog, be sure to subscribe to "Tail Wagging" at http://www.dog-breeds-online.com/tail-wagging.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Greg_Finkley
Thursday, January 18, 2007
Which Type of Dog Collar is Right For Your Dog
By Michael Webber
There are on the market different kinds of dog collars, and a dog owner sometimes does not know what to choose, because each collar has a different impact on the dog’s neck. So you have to be well aware of the collar type which fits best your dog, and of course, which also satisfies your quality requirements. Here are some collar types which are recommended for your dogs.
Simple buckle collar
It is a simple belt, tied to the dog’s neck, having a metal buckle. Made of nylon or leather, it may be adjustable. It can be used as a simple collar, in order to tie your dog, or it may be an identification collar (for the municipal license, range medal, etc.). If you use this collar to educate or to train your dog, it may cause an opposition reaction from the dog (pull – pull, push – push). Therefore this collar can’t be used at all for education or obedience training, because there are no means of applying a correction using the collar (a slight collar stroke), without the automatic opposition of the dog. Besides, you can hurt your elbow or your shoulders if you use it with a large dog.
Adjustable “quick release” collar
This collar type is the most recommended for puppies because it can be well adjusted on a growing puppy’s neck. It is made of nylon, with a plastic buckle. But, as well as the simple buckle collar, it can’t be used for obedience training. Break away collar
It is a special collar, which breaks when it is hit. It was invented as a result of a dog’s death, whose collar did not break, even if the dog was hanging. It is recommended when you allow your dog running free in the back yard, without being supervised. Conventional strangulation collar - Sliding collar
Also called “choker”, this collar is used the most frequently for dogs. A study made in Germany proved that this type of collar causes the wounding of the neck, of the spinal column, as well as of the throat, if it is not used properly (which means in 95 per cent of the cases!). Since it is not used for obedience training, but as a preventive measure, this collar can’t be used for all kind of dogs, neither by all kinds of persons. It is actually a chain, with a sort of ring at each end. The collar slides into one of the rings at each end.
The collar slides into one of the rings, making the shape of a “P”. The leash is attached to the ring at the end of the “P”, that is why the collar might slide. Take into account that if your dog walks on your left, the collar does have the form of a “P”. But if the dog walks on your right, the collar must form a “Q”. When the collar is attached to the second ring (the still ring), no sliding of the collar is allowed.
This kind of collar provokes a complete strangulation of the dog. A lot of dogs even died. You must never leave this type of collar at the dog’s neck if it is alone, outdoors or in a kennel, as an accident may occur very quickly.
If the chain is large enough, it can slide less easily, so the collar is less effective. If the chain is soft enough, the correction will be more effective. The adjustment must be perfect if you want an efficient correction, by sliding the chain. A too short or a too long collar won’t correct conveniently the dog and there will appear the danger of a wounding for the dog or even for the person who holds the leash.
Nylon holding collar
These collars are usually used for conformation exhibitions. They are used in the same way as the conventional strangulation collars, very easily. Martingale type collar
These collars are a variation of the strangulation collar. They are effective for a simple, quick and precise correction of the dog, if it is well adjusted.
The adjustment round the dog’s neck is important if you want an efficient dog collar. It is recommended for puppies and adult dogs, for any kind of education or obedience training.
Martingale leash
It is an exhibition leash for small dogs.
Prong or pinch collar
This collar is used for the same reasons as the conventional strangulation collar. It is used to correct the dog, exerting an equal pressure on the whole surface of the neck. If it is well adjusted, this collar doesn’t pinch the skin and doesn’t hurt the animal. The pinch - prong collar is actually much more secure when it is used, than a strangulation collar. A study made in Germany proved that the injuries on the neck, on the back and in the throat are less, when it is used the pinch collar instead of a strangulation one. This type of collar is usually used for dogs which pull the leash, which refuse a usual correction with the strangulation collar or for people who are not able to control a very strong dog. This collar is used for dog obedience training and it must be used correctly. It must never be used for a puppy.
Dog halter
The dog halter is often used for the dogs which pull the leash. It can be used as the horse halter, but it is usually applied near the eyes, so that it is very uncomfortable for most of the dogs. This halter is not a muzzle and in order to be effective it must be used together with a collar. Harness
Some people use the harness in order to stop the dog pulling the leash. It is a contradictory use, because a harness is made for pulling. These are the most popular dog collars. Nowadays there are more advanced dog collars, like magnetic or electronic ones, but this subject should be treated separately.
Michael Webber makes it quick and easy for anyone to train their dog and keep them in peak condition. Learn the 7 essential steps to a happy healthy dog for life. To receive your free Dog training and health membership Visit: http://www.free-dog-books.com
There are on the market different kinds of dog collars, and a dog owner sometimes does not know what to choose, because each collar has a different impact on the dog’s neck. So you have to be well aware of the collar type which fits best your dog, and of course, which also satisfies your quality requirements. Here are some collar types which are recommended for your dogs.
Simple buckle collar
It is a simple belt, tied to the dog’s neck, having a metal buckle. Made of nylon or leather, it may be adjustable. It can be used as a simple collar, in order to tie your dog, or it may be an identification collar (for the municipal license, range medal, etc.). If you use this collar to educate or to train your dog, it may cause an opposition reaction from the dog (pull – pull, push – push). Therefore this collar can’t be used at all for education or obedience training, because there are no means of applying a correction using the collar (a slight collar stroke), without the automatic opposition of the dog. Besides, you can hurt your elbow or your shoulders if you use it with a large dog.
Adjustable “quick release” collar
This collar type is the most recommended for puppies because it can be well adjusted on a growing puppy’s neck. It is made of nylon, with a plastic buckle. But, as well as the simple buckle collar, it can’t be used for obedience training. Break away collar
It is a special collar, which breaks when it is hit. It was invented as a result of a dog’s death, whose collar did not break, even if the dog was hanging. It is recommended when you allow your dog running free in the back yard, without being supervised. Conventional strangulation collar - Sliding collar
Also called “choker”, this collar is used the most frequently for dogs. A study made in Germany proved that this type of collar causes the wounding of the neck, of the spinal column, as well as of the throat, if it is not used properly (which means in 95 per cent of the cases!). Since it is not used for obedience training, but as a preventive measure, this collar can’t be used for all kind of dogs, neither by all kinds of persons. It is actually a chain, with a sort of ring at each end. The collar slides into one of the rings at each end.
The collar slides into one of the rings, making the shape of a “P”. The leash is attached to the ring at the end of the “P”, that is why the collar might slide. Take into account that if your dog walks on your left, the collar does have the form of a “P”. But if the dog walks on your right, the collar must form a “Q”. When the collar is attached to the second ring (the still ring), no sliding of the collar is allowed.
This kind of collar provokes a complete strangulation of the dog. A lot of dogs even died. You must never leave this type of collar at the dog’s neck if it is alone, outdoors or in a kennel, as an accident may occur very quickly.
If the chain is large enough, it can slide less easily, so the collar is less effective. If the chain is soft enough, the correction will be more effective. The adjustment must be perfect if you want an efficient correction, by sliding the chain. A too short or a too long collar won’t correct conveniently the dog and there will appear the danger of a wounding for the dog or even for the person who holds the leash.
Nylon holding collar
These collars are usually used for conformation exhibitions. They are used in the same way as the conventional strangulation collars, very easily. Martingale type collar
These collars are a variation of the strangulation collar. They are effective for a simple, quick and precise correction of the dog, if it is well adjusted.
The adjustment round the dog’s neck is important if you want an efficient dog collar. It is recommended for puppies and adult dogs, for any kind of education or obedience training.
Martingale leash
It is an exhibition leash for small dogs.
Prong or pinch collar
This collar is used for the same reasons as the conventional strangulation collar. It is used to correct the dog, exerting an equal pressure on the whole surface of the neck. If it is well adjusted, this collar doesn’t pinch the skin and doesn’t hurt the animal. The pinch - prong collar is actually much more secure when it is used, than a strangulation collar. A study made in Germany proved that the injuries on the neck, on the back and in the throat are less, when it is used the pinch collar instead of a strangulation one. This type of collar is usually used for dogs which pull the leash, which refuse a usual correction with the strangulation collar or for people who are not able to control a very strong dog. This collar is used for dog obedience training and it must be used correctly. It must never be used for a puppy.
Dog halter
The dog halter is often used for the dogs which pull the leash. It can be used as the horse halter, but it is usually applied near the eyes, so that it is very uncomfortable for most of the dogs. This halter is not a muzzle and in order to be effective it must be used together with a collar. Harness
Some people use the harness in order to stop the dog pulling the leash. It is a contradictory use, because a harness is made for pulling. These are the most popular dog collars. Nowadays there are more advanced dog collars, like magnetic or electronic ones, but this subject should be treated separately.
Michael Webber makes it quick and easy for anyone to train their dog and keep them in peak condition. Learn the 7 essential steps to a happy healthy dog for life. To receive your free Dog training and health membership Visit: http://www.free-dog-books.com
Saturday, January 6, 2007
Sit Stay Fetch - 12 Essential Commands Every Dog Should Know
By Lee Tuan James
Have you taught your dog basic obedience commands like sit, stay or fetch yet?
Many dog owners know the importance of teaching dog commands to communicate and train their dogs in proper behavior but with so many different commands, which are the truly important and effective ones to know?
Well, here are essentially 12 dog commands that we believe your dog need to know to get along happily with you and the rest of the world.
[Come]
This is the first and most important command in your dog's command repertoire. Usually taught together with his/her name, it's a command that you will use actively to recall your dog back to you if he/she breaks free from the leash or is running around disturbing other people in the park.
[Sit]
This is one of the easiest commands to teach, and also one of the most useful especially to control your dog from getting too excited while you are preparing its meal. Dogs who understand the "Sit" command are easier to manage and are also less likely to misbehave like jumping on people, chasing animals or fighting with other dogs.
[Stay]
Often used in combination with commands "sit" or "down," the command "stay" is useful to keep your dog out of harms way should he/she approach something it's not suppose to or attempting to run across a busy street. Not the easiest command for dogs as sometimes their curiosity and animal instinct might take over instead of staying put when told.
[Wait]
Different from the "Stay" command which is more often use to keep your dog away from danger, the "Wait" command is more of a obedience command to keep your dog in check, letting him/her know he/she has to wait till your next command. Commonly use on dogs that have a habit of rushing through doors or pull ahead on a leash.
[Down]
Unlike the "sit" command, the "down" command means your dog goes down on his/her stomach. This command is an essential part of doggy etiquette. It's also more comfortable than a sitting position when you want your dog wait for you for more than a minute or two.
[Stand]
This command tells your dog to stop moving and be still. It's useful for when you are having a veterinarian examining him/her over or when you are bathing and grooming him/her.
[Okay]
The "Okay" command is use to release your dog from a previous command you have given earlier. For example, your dog is now free to walk through the open door after you had early given the "Wait" command.
[No]
Depending on the situation, the "No" is usually use to discourage or break up undesirable behavior such as chewing, biting or jumping. This is an important command that you should teach your puppy from the beginning.
[Off]
The "Off" command is useful to teach your dog to get off that expensive sofa or your bed and is also applicable for telling them to stop jumping on you or other people.
[Leave It]
Dogs are inquisitive animals and sometimes give in to their instinct to explore things that appeal to their senses. The "Leave It" command is perfect to stop dogs that fancies poop eating or having a fetish chewing habit to chew everything around the house.
[Drop It]
The "Drop It" command is necessary to get your dog drop whatever it is in their mouth especially items like your expensive leather shoe or unknown substances that might be potentially harmful. This command is also useful when you start teaching your dog how to "Fetch".
[Heel]
"Heel" simply means that your dog will walk on your left without lagging behind or running ahead of you. This is extremely useful for your dog to understand this command to prevent him/her pulling you on the leash while going for walks. This command becomes all the more necessary if you have a large dog.
Knowing these 12 voice commands will give you the basic fundamentals to having a well-manner dog in your every day life.
If you are interested to learn how to execute these commands correctly and effectively, read the review of a highly rated, illustrated dog training bestseller titled Sit Stay Fetch whereby Daniel, a certified expert dog trainer will teach and guide you Step-by-Step all the basic 12 commands and many other more... to having a well-behaved dog!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lee_Tuan_James
Have you taught your dog basic obedience commands like sit, stay or fetch yet?
Many dog owners know the importance of teaching dog commands to communicate and train their dogs in proper behavior but with so many different commands, which are the truly important and effective ones to know?
Well, here are essentially 12 dog commands that we believe your dog need to know to get along happily with you and the rest of the world.
[Come]
This is the first and most important command in your dog's command repertoire. Usually taught together with his/her name, it's a command that you will use actively to recall your dog back to you if he/she breaks free from the leash or is running around disturbing other people in the park.
[Sit]
This is one of the easiest commands to teach, and also one of the most useful especially to control your dog from getting too excited while you are preparing its meal. Dogs who understand the "Sit" command are easier to manage and are also less likely to misbehave like jumping on people, chasing animals or fighting with other dogs.
[Stay]
Often used in combination with commands "sit" or "down," the command "stay" is useful to keep your dog out of harms way should he/she approach something it's not suppose to or attempting to run across a busy street. Not the easiest command for dogs as sometimes their curiosity and animal instinct might take over instead of staying put when told.
[Wait]
Different from the "Stay" command which is more often use to keep your dog away from danger, the "Wait" command is more of a obedience command to keep your dog in check, letting him/her know he/she has to wait till your next command. Commonly use on dogs that have a habit of rushing through doors or pull ahead on a leash.
[Down]
Unlike the "sit" command, the "down" command means your dog goes down on his/her stomach. This command is an essential part of doggy etiquette. It's also more comfortable than a sitting position when you want your dog wait for you for more than a minute or two.
[Stand]
This command tells your dog to stop moving and be still. It's useful for when you are having a veterinarian examining him/her over or when you are bathing and grooming him/her.
[Okay]
The "Okay" command is use to release your dog from a previous command you have given earlier. For example, your dog is now free to walk through the open door after you had early given the "Wait" command.
[No]
Depending on the situation, the "No" is usually use to discourage or break up undesirable behavior such as chewing, biting or jumping. This is an important command that you should teach your puppy from the beginning.
[Off]
The "Off" command is useful to teach your dog to get off that expensive sofa or your bed and is also applicable for telling them to stop jumping on you or other people.
[Leave It]
Dogs are inquisitive animals and sometimes give in to their instinct to explore things that appeal to their senses. The "Leave It" command is perfect to stop dogs that fancies poop eating or having a fetish chewing habit to chew everything around the house.
[Drop It]
The "Drop It" command is necessary to get your dog drop whatever it is in their mouth especially items like your expensive leather shoe or unknown substances that might be potentially harmful. This command is also useful when you start teaching your dog how to "Fetch".
[Heel]
"Heel" simply means that your dog will walk on your left without lagging behind or running ahead of you. This is extremely useful for your dog to understand this command to prevent him/her pulling you on the leash while going for walks. This command becomes all the more necessary if you have a large dog.
Knowing these 12 voice commands will give you the basic fundamentals to having a well-manner dog in your every day life.
If you are interested to learn how to execute these commands correctly and effectively, read the review of a highly rated, illustrated dog training bestseller titled Sit Stay Fetch whereby Daniel, a certified expert dog trainer will teach and guide you Step-by-Step all the basic 12 commands and many other more... to having a well-behaved dog!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lee_Tuan_James
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