By John Edwards
When it comes to buying dog dishes, you have a lot of options, from using an old pot to buying a hand-thrown ceramic bowl with your dog's name painted on it. Dishes designed to store up to a couple of days' worth of food or water are available, as are paper bowls good for one meal only (the latter most commonly used at boarding kennels and veterinary hospitals).
You will probably prefer sturdy dishes of molded plastic or stainless steel that resist chewing or scratching and can be sterilized in the dishwasher. These dishes – especially stainless steel - retain their good looks, handle any abuse a dog can dish out, and last forever. Dishes that damage easily are hard to keep clean and invite the buildup of food and bacteria in the dents and scratches. Some dogs also have a sensitivity to plastic bowls.
For tall dogs, consider an elevated unit that brings the bowl up to the dog's level, an especially nice product for older dogs. For dogs with long, silky ears - like cocker spaniels - look for bowls with a narrow opening and high sloped sides to keep that fur out of the muck. If your dog is a ravenous eater, a bowl with a nonskid base will help keep the dish from ending up sliding all over the house.
Some people are a little squeamish about putting dog dishes in the dishwasher, but, honestly, if your dishwasher's doing its job right, the water will be hot enough to render everything in it clean enough for you to eat out of.
The Water Bowl
While food dishes should be picked up, washed, and put away after meals, water dishes need to be kept full and available at all times. Here, too, stainless steel is your best choice. Dishes with reservoirs are fine, but they're hard to keep clean. And, unless your dog needs a lot of water, these products get mucky before the water needs to be refilled.
For outside water, the "Lixit," available in any pet-supply store or catalog, has long been a popular device. Attached to a faucet, it releases fresh water when the dog licks or nuzzles the trigger - and stops the flow when the dog is through. They need to be installed in a protected area, however, for the metal can become frying-pan hot if exposed to full summer sun.
All water sources need to be sheltered from both heat and freezing cold, or they won't be available to your dog - a potentially deadly situation in extreme weather. As for keeping water warm, there are heated bowls available to keep water from freezing, as well as special devices designed to fit into buckets to do the same thing.
If you and your dog are constantly on the go, look into a more portable water source. Several different kinds of traveling bowls are designed to reduce splashing, and some collapsible products can be put away in a space as small as a fanny pack.
John Edwards is a long time dog lover. Visit his website to learn which dandruff shampoo for dog is good for dog and many more tips at: http://www.dogcaretraining.com
Saturday, December 30, 2006
Friday, December 29, 2006
Crate Training Your Dog Step-by-Step
By Lee Tuan James
The objective of crate training your dog is to teach him/her to go into its crate for safety, obedience and behavior control.
Your dog will love the crate with proper training as the crate will act as a den for your dog where it can feel secure and comfortable, the same way dogs like going under tables, sofas, or beds.
Crate training has also been proven that it is a very convenient and effective way to housebreak a dog at the same time as dogs generally do not like to soil on the areas where they rest.
This training can also come in handy when you are traveling with your pet as the crate can be utilized to transport your dog around safely.
Overall, crate training is an effective training method and is often used by many dog lovers, owners and trainers alike.
Choosing A Crate
Selecting a crate depends on whether you have a puppy or an adult dog.
If you are choosing for a puppy, it is recommended from an economical point of view to get an adjustable crate that can accommodate him/her later as it grows to become an adult dog.
Other things to take note are to make sure that it is comfortable and provides ample space for your dog to stand and move around. However, the crate cannot be too big that it can use one corner to "eliminate".
Crate Preparations
Before proceeding with crate training your dog, you should try to make the crate as comfortable as possible for your dog. Place a crate pad and a bowl of water in it.
Secure and fasten the crate's door open so it won't hit and frighten him/her accidentally.
Next, place the crate in an area where you or the family members are around most often so that your dog can interact with frequently and not somewhere isolated.
Introducing Your Dog To The Crate
Begin by playing with your dog near the crate. Encourage your dog into the crate by placing its favorite snack or toy in the crate. When your dog enters the crate, react positively by rewarding and praising him/her. This will help your dog associate positively feelings towards the crate.
Repeat the process as many times as possible for the next few days till he/she is accustom and uses the crate without any prompting from you.
Key To Crate Training Your Dog Successful
To crate train your dog successfully, always associate the crate with all things positive. Never send your dog back to its crate as a form of punishment for any misbehavior. A dog's attitude to its crate must always be positive.
Benefits Of Crate Training Your Dog
The crate offers your dog a sense of security, privacy and comfort.
When your dog is successfully crate trained, you can be quite sure that your dog won't destroy items from your house, cause any accidents or develop bad habits while you are out.
House training your dog will be so much easier and faster by using the crate to motivate your dog to wait until being taken outside, since all dogs naturally avoid soiling their own crate.
Traveling with your dog will also be much easier, safer and less fuss without him/her interfering you while you are driving.
Potential Problems To Avoid When Crate Training
Do not put your dog in the crate for long periods of time. If use incorrectly, your dog might become anxious and fearful. Crate your dog no longer than five hours at a time. You will also have to combine crate training with long walks, play and other physical activities.
Do not place the crate in an isolated room during the night. Your dog might whine, if he/she feels alone, scared or ignored. Move the crate into your bedroom where your dog can see you. You will also be able to hear your dog if he/she needs to go out.
While crate training your dog will take patience, dedication and time to make sure that your dog completely understands the meaning and usage of the crate, it will also conditions your dog to have the proper manners and behaviors that you desire.
Lee Tuan James is a member of the Dog Training Classroom team (http://www.dogtrainingclassroom.com). Stay in touch with more Dog Training Tips, Interesting News and Updates by subscribing to Dog Training News.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lee_Tuan_James
Monday, December 25, 2006
Tips to Housebreak a Puppy
By Matt Ryan
Perhaps the first and most important thing any puppy owner wants to do is to housebreak their new puppy. This cannot only be a very positive learning experience for the puppy, but also for the owner, particularly for first time dog owners.
When preparing to train your puppy to do what comes naturally outside, rather than inside, it's very important to understand that dog's are habit animals. Everything they do as they grow older is born from habit, the choice the dog owner has is whether the puppy is going to create it's own habits or if the habits are going to be taught.
Another important factor to keep in mind that until after three months of age a puppy cannot physically control the muscles needed to keep from going, it just happens. To overcome this in the early months, take the puppy out often or confine your puppy to an area of the house where it's easy to clean up any messes. Be sure to keep the area the puppy stays in clean; it can be very difficult to train a puppy to go outside if he or she can smell the scent of urine inside.
Once the puppy is old enough to start the housebreaking process, it is vitally important to remember one of the major keys to training a puppy is promptness. When you display your disapproval for an action the puppy has taken, the puppy relates that disapproval to whatever it is doing at that exact moment.
For instance, if you come by a few minutes after the puppy has done it's duty on the floor and do your scolding, the puppy will not relate the scolding to the duty but to either the mess itself or whatever he or she is doing when you come along. Thus, all that will happen is your puppy will become scared and not learn a thing about the housebreaking you are trying to teach.
The easiest way to handle this process is to actually catch the puppy in the act of going inside. Yes, the way is easy but doing it can be quite difficult because there is no set timing or pattern to when a puppy my have to go.
At the times you are able to catch your puppy in the act of relieving him or herself in a place you don't want this to happen, scold the puppy appropriately and take him or her to where you would like them to go. Wait there with the puppy until nature takes hold again then be prompt and very passionate with your praise.
To housebreak a puppy will take time and patience on the part of the owner. With that being said, with proper timing of the scolding and the praising it will indeed happen.
Perhaps the first and most important thing any puppy owner wants to do is to housebreak their new puppy. This cannot only be a very positive learning experience for the puppy, but also for the owner, particularly for first time dog owners.
When preparing to train your puppy to do what comes naturally outside, rather than inside, it's very important to understand that dog's are habit animals. Everything they do as they grow older is born from habit, the choice the dog owner has is whether the puppy is going to create it's own habits or if the habits are going to be taught.
Another important factor to keep in mind that until after three months of age a puppy cannot physically control the muscles needed to keep from going, it just happens. To overcome this in the early months, take the puppy out often or confine your puppy to an area of the house where it's easy to clean up any messes. Be sure to keep the area the puppy stays in clean; it can be very difficult to train a puppy to go outside if he or she can smell the scent of urine inside.
Once the puppy is old enough to start the housebreaking process, it is vitally important to remember one of the major keys to training a puppy is promptness. When you display your disapproval for an action the puppy has taken, the puppy relates that disapproval to whatever it is doing at that exact moment.
For instance, if you come by a few minutes after the puppy has done it's duty on the floor and do your scolding, the puppy will not relate the scolding to the duty but to either the mess itself or whatever he or she is doing when you come along. Thus, all that will happen is your puppy will become scared and not learn a thing about the housebreaking you are trying to teach.
The easiest way to handle this process is to actually catch the puppy in the act of going inside. Yes, the way is easy but doing it can be quite difficult because there is no set timing or pattern to when a puppy my have to go.
At the times you are able to catch your puppy in the act of relieving him or herself in a place you don't want this to happen, scold the puppy appropriately and take him or her to where you would like them to go. Wait there with the puppy until nature takes hold again then be prompt and very passionate with your praise.
To housebreak a puppy will take time and patience on the part of the owner. With that being said, with proper timing of the scolding and the praising it will indeed happen.
Sunday, December 24, 2006
Catch Dog Joint and Muscle Problems Before They Get Out of Control
By John Laraby
We love our dogs and try to take care of them as best as possible. But problems occur despite our best intentions and precautions. Common ailments include arthritis, muscle strains and pulls and hip dysplasia. However, your beloved pooch need not be in constant pain and discomfort. The first step is to identify whether there is a joint or muscle problem. Even if in doubt, a visit to the vet is never unwarranted, especially if you are able to catch a problem before it gets too serious.
Different factors can affect the health of your dog’s joints. Infection, degenerative disease and physical trauma are all known factors that cause joint problems. Joints work improperly due to bone, muscle, ligament, tendon or nerve damage. Physical signs of joint problems include obvious pain, swelling, rigidity and an increase of body temperature. However, these symptoms are not necessarily due to joint problems. Understanding common joint and muscle problems that dogs have will help you to see the warning signs and help you to understand when your pet starts acting out of the ordinary.
Arthritis: Arthritis is caused by muscle strain near the connection with a tendon. Symptoms of arthritis in dogs include limping or stiffness, having a difficult time rising, reluctant to jump when it was previously not a problem and even obvious pain. Now, noticing these symptoms after a weekend hiking or camping can be quite normal, but any prolonged symptoms are best checked out by your veterinary.
Muscle Sprain or Strain: Muscle injuries are not only one of the most common injuries in dogs, but the most difficult to diagnose. Most often, muscle sprains or strains go undetected simply because dogs do not show pain the same way that humans do. If you are noticing obvious pain, most definitely take your pet to the vet. Dogs mostly show signs of “slowing” or “favoring” rather than yelps or cries in pain. Favoring a leg for more than a few days or acting lethargic are reasons to be concerned.
Hip dysplasia: The basic definition of hip dysplasia is any abnormal formation of the hip joint. This abnormal formation causes looseness to the joint, which results in physical symptoms. Some breeds are more prone to dysplasia than others, but it is beneficial for all dog owners to know what to look for. After regular exercise the puppy may refuse to walk any farther and sit back on its legs. Another warning sign in puppies is that their back legs may look a bit underdeveloped.
Even if your dog appears normal, it does not mean that he or she has escaped hip dysplasia. Some dogs simply accept the pain and you won’t notice any sort of complaining until the hip has degenerated into joint disease. The only way to know for sure your dog doesn’t have hip dysplasia is through a pelvic x-ray.
When it is Time to go to the Vet: Any sort of obvious pain is cause to make an appointment with your veterinarian. Even if you’re fairly confident that it is simply arthritis, you will not know for sure until your dog is examined.
What to Expect at the Veterinarian: At the visit, the vet will want to do an overall physical, especially if your dog is a new patient or it has been awhile since the last visit. The physical will include a dental check, physical palpitation for any bumps or lumps and confirmation of spaying or neutering. A dental check-up is more important than some owners realize. Bacteria can lead to infection, which then can spread throughout the entire body if left untreated. When the visit is for possible joint or muscle problems, the vet will most likely want an x-ray to rule-out hip dysplasia and verify any other theories.
Hopefully, all checks out well with your pet and there are no problem other than the need for a little extra rest! We all love our pets and sometimes all does not turn out well after a vet visit. But, there are many ways to treat joint and muscle problems while alleviating discomfort. Ignoring a problem is never the solution and when in doubt, make an appointment and have the vet check it out!
We love our dogs and try to take care of them as best as possible. But problems occur despite our best intentions and precautions. Common ailments include arthritis, muscle strains and pulls and hip dysplasia. However, your beloved pooch need not be in constant pain and discomfort. The first step is to identify whether there is a joint or muscle problem. Even if in doubt, a visit to the vet is never unwarranted, especially if you are able to catch a problem before it gets too serious.
Different factors can affect the health of your dog’s joints. Infection, degenerative disease and physical trauma are all known factors that cause joint problems. Joints work improperly due to bone, muscle, ligament, tendon or nerve damage. Physical signs of joint problems include obvious pain, swelling, rigidity and an increase of body temperature. However, these symptoms are not necessarily due to joint problems. Understanding common joint and muscle problems that dogs have will help you to see the warning signs and help you to understand when your pet starts acting out of the ordinary.
Arthritis: Arthritis is caused by muscle strain near the connection with a tendon. Symptoms of arthritis in dogs include limping or stiffness, having a difficult time rising, reluctant to jump when it was previously not a problem and even obvious pain. Now, noticing these symptoms after a weekend hiking or camping can be quite normal, but any prolonged symptoms are best checked out by your veterinary.
Muscle Sprain or Strain: Muscle injuries are not only one of the most common injuries in dogs, but the most difficult to diagnose. Most often, muscle sprains or strains go undetected simply because dogs do not show pain the same way that humans do. If you are noticing obvious pain, most definitely take your pet to the vet. Dogs mostly show signs of “slowing” or “favoring” rather than yelps or cries in pain. Favoring a leg for more than a few days or acting lethargic are reasons to be concerned.
Hip dysplasia: The basic definition of hip dysplasia is any abnormal formation of the hip joint. This abnormal formation causes looseness to the joint, which results in physical symptoms. Some breeds are more prone to dysplasia than others, but it is beneficial for all dog owners to know what to look for. After regular exercise the puppy may refuse to walk any farther and sit back on its legs. Another warning sign in puppies is that their back legs may look a bit underdeveloped.
Even if your dog appears normal, it does not mean that he or she has escaped hip dysplasia. Some dogs simply accept the pain and you won’t notice any sort of complaining until the hip has degenerated into joint disease. The only way to know for sure your dog doesn’t have hip dysplasia is through a pelvic x-ray.
When it is Time to go to the Vet: Any sort of obvious pain is cause to make an appointment with your veterinarian. Even if you’re fairly confident that it is simply arthritis, you will not know for sure until your dog is examined.
What to Expect at the Veterinarian: At the visit, the vet will want to do an overall physical, especially if your dog is a new patient or it has been awhile since the last visit. The physical will include a dental check, physical palpitation for any bumps or lumps and confirmation of spaying or neutering. A dental check-up is more important than some owners realize. Bacteria can lead to infection, which then can spread throughout the entire body if left untreated. When the visit is for possible joint or muscle problems, the vet will most likely want an x-ray to rule-out hip dysplasia and verify any other theories.
Hopefully, all checks out well with your pet and there are no problem other than the need for a little extra rest! We all love our pets and sometimes all does not turn out well after a vet visit. But, there are many ways to treat joint and muscle problems while alleviating discomfort. Ignoring a problem is never the solution and when in doubt, make an appointment and have the vet check it out!
Friday, December 22, 2006
Dog Ear Problems – What Can Go Wrong and How To Care For Them
By Moses Wright
A dog’s sense of smell is known to be acute, but don’t discount his sense of hearing! A dog's hearing is crucial, and if he develops infections or can't hear properly, you not only deprive him of all the delicious sounds in your house and neighborhood but you prevent him communicating properly with other dogs too.
When giving your dog a weekly check, you should make sure his ears are perky and healthy. Deafness in your dog can point to an infection or illness. It's a good idea to get your dog used to have his ears examined regularly, so incorporate this into your routine with him as early as possible.
Areas to concentrate on when looking your dog over, is to check the outside flap for cuts, bits caught in the fur, sore places, abscesses and infections. This task is made simpler in sleek dogs with shorter fur as any cuts are easily observed. For breeds of dogs that have longer fur and ears, you might have to be more meticulous when examining his ears. For instance, dogs with longer ears like the spaniels require that you tease the fur out carefully to check the skin hidden beneath the fur before any cuts or blood blisters from scraps with other animals can be observed.
Pay attention to the ear canal by gently drawing it backwards and upwards so as to get a good view towards the eardrum. Check to see if the ear canal seems to be wet or shows signs of inflammation that require a vet’s attention.
Tiny white mites and parasites can plague dogs. If mites are present you may notice a black, crusty exudate which is the telltale sign of mite infestation. Mites feed on earwax and the resulting debris harbours bacteria. Over time, this leads to inflammation and infection of the ear canal. To get rid of the mites, you will need to obtain an antibiotic treatment from your vet. The course of treatment would last for three weeks to catch the mites at all stages of their development.
Wash your dog’s ear gently with a mixture of warm water and an ear wash solution recommended by your vet. It is important to remove as much moisture as you can by drying his ears adequately, as moisture encourages the growth of bacteria. Dissolve a few drops of a prescribed insecticide in some carrier oil and use the oil to massage the ear gently so that the oil gets in contact with the inner reaches of the canal. This is to be done once a week and after two weeks, your dog should have a clean ear and won't be shaking his head or trying to scratch it.
Never put Q-tips or anything similar down the ear canal to dig out any ear wax - you may well damage the lining of the ears or puncture his eardrum. You should pay attention to chronic ear infections, as it could be a sign of allergies or other problems. If washing and cleaning alone don't help alleviate the problem, it would be advisable to let your vet deal with it.
A dog’s sense of smell is known to be acute, but don’t discount his sense of hearing! A dog's hearing is crucial, and if he develops infections or can't hear properly, you not only deprive him of all the delicious sounds in your house and neighborhood but you prevent him communicating properly with other dogs too.
When giving your dog a weekly check, you should make sure his ears are perky and healthy. Deafness in your dog can point to an infection or illness. It's a good idea to get your dog used to have his ears examined regularly, so incorporate this into your routine with him as early as possible.
Areas to concentrate on when looking your dog over, is to check the outside flap for cuts, bits caught in the fur, sore places, abscesses and infections. This task is made simpler in sleek dogs with shorter fur as any cuts are easily observed. For breeds of dogs that have longer fur and ears, you might have to be more meticulous when examining his ears. For instance, dogs with longer ears like the spaniels require that you tease the fur out carefully to check the skin hidden beneath the fur before any cuts or blood blisters from scraps with other animals can be observed.
Pay attention to the ear canal by gently drawing it backwards and upwards so as to get a good view towards the eardrum. Check to see if the ear canal seems to be wet or shows signs of inflammation that require a vet’s attention.
Tiny white mites and parasites can plague dogs. If mites are present you may notice a black, crusty exudate which is the telltale sign of mite infestation. Mites feed on earwax and the resulting debris harbours bacteria. Over time, this leads to inflammation and infection of the ear canal. To get rid of the mites, you will need to obtain an antibiotic treatment from your vet. The course of treatment would last for three weeks to catch the mites at all stages of their development.
Wash your dog’s ear gently with a mixture of warm water and an ear wash solution recommended by your vet. It is important to remove as much moisture as you can by drying his ears adequately, as moisture encourages the growth of bacteria. Dissolve a few drops of a prescribed insecticide in some carrier oil and use the oil to massage the ear gently so that the oil gets in contact with the inner reaches of the canal. This is to be done once a week and after two weeks, your dog should have a clean ear and won't be shaking his head or trying to scratch it.
Never put Q-tips or anything similar down the ear canal to dig out any ear wax - you may well damage the lining of the ears or puncture his eardrum. You should pay attention to chronic ear infections, as it could be a sign of allergies or other problems. If washing and cleaning alone don't help alleviate the problem, it would be advisable to let your vet deal with it.
Thursday, December 14, 2006
Dog Cleaning Tips: How to Keep Clean & and Germ Free When Raising Your Dog
By Dan Irwin
Housebreaking a puppy goes a long way in reducing the amount of time you will have to spend cleaning up your dog's accidents. For help cutting down the cleanup time, try some of the ideas below.
1. Premix in spray bottles appropriate cleaning products, such as vinegar and water or detergent and water, so the products are ready when you need them. Label the spray bottles with their contents and store them in a convenient place. Often, just the strength of the spray on the spot where your dog accidentally left you a “present” helps loosen the residue and prevent stains from forming.
2. Upholstered furniture is made in all styles and fabrics; some are easier to clean than others. To help us with our cleaning tasks, manufacturers have marked their furniture with a cleaning code or set of directions to let us, the consumer, know what type of cleaning is suggested for that fabric.
The codes are usually on the furniture platforms under the cushions. A "W," for example, means that the product should be cleaned only with water, while the letter "S" means the furniture should be cleaned only with solvents. You should check the manufacturer's instructions and test-clean a spot in an inconspicuous place before using any cleaning product.
3. Treat your carpet and upholstered furniture with a stain-resistant product such as Scotchgard.
Taking Care of Germs
In the whole scheme of things, we have a greater chance of being exposed to harmful germs from other people, or even the food we eat, than we do from animals; however, eliminating bacteria from surfaces on which our dogs walk or from our hands can help make our homes and us more sanitary. Here are some weapons for your battle against germs:
1. If you're on a walk with your dog, take along an individually packaged antibacterial wipe to clean and sanitize your hands after picking up your dog's wastes. Antibacterial wipes can be purchased in most supermarkets and grocery stores.
2. Use common household bleach to wipe down surfaces or clean floors to get rid of harmful bacteria. Rinse well and don't allow your dog to walk on the surface while it's wet. If the bleach gets on your dog's paws, he might ingest it when he licks his feet. Be sure to pretest a surface before cleaning with bleach to avoid any color changes.
3. Another option is to use an antibacterial cleaner with an odor neutralizer to eliminate bacteria and leave your house smelling clean.
4. Wash dog food dishes with detergent daily to prevent bacterial growth. If your dog's food and water bowls are dishwasher safe, place them in the dishwasher where the high temperatures will kill bacteria.
Taking the time to prepare for the inevitable messes your dog will make is a good idea. Caring for a dog can be a lot of work, but it should be an enjoyable experience. By practicing common sense hygiene as discussed above you will help keep yourself healthy, and both you and your dog happy.
Housebreaking a puppy goes a long way in reducing the amount of time you will have to spend cleaning up your dog's accidents. For help cutting down the cleanup time, try some of the ideas below.
1. Premix in spray bottles appropriate cleaning products, such as vinegar and water or detergent and water, so the products are ready when you need them. Label the spray bottles with their contents and store them in a convenient place. Often, just the strength of the spray on the spot where your dog accidentally left you a “present” helps loosen the residue and prevent stains from forming.
2. Upholstered furniture is made in all styles and fabrics; some are easier to clean than others. To help us with our cleaning tasks, manufacturers have marked their furniture with a cleaning code or set of directions to let us, the consumer, know what type of cleaning is suggested for that fabric.
The codes are usually on the furniture platforms under the cushions. A "W," for example, means that the product should be cleaned only with water, while the letter "S" means the furniture should be cleaned only with solvents. You should check the manufacturer's instructions and test-clean a spot in an inconspicuous place before using any cleaning product.
3. Treat your carpet and upholstered furniture with a stain-resistant product such as Scotchgard.
Taking Care of Germs
In the whole scheme of things, we have a greater chance of being exposed to harmful germs from other people, or even the food we eat, than we do from animals; however, eliminating bacteria from surfaces on which our dogs walk or from our hands can help make our homes and us more sanitary. Here are some weapons for your battle against germs:
1. If you're on a walk with your dog, take along an individually packaged antibacterial wipe to clean and sanitize your hands after picking up your dog's wastes. Antibacterial wipes can be purchased in most supermarkets and grocery stores.
2. Use common household bleach to wipe down surfaces or clean floors to get rid of harmful bacteria. Rinse well and don't allow your dog to walk on the surface while it's wet. If the bleach gets on your dog's paws, he might ingest it when he licks his feet. Be sure to pretest a surface before cleaning with bleach to avoid any color changes.
3. Another option is to use an antibacterial cleaner with an odor neutralizer to eliminate bacteria and leave your house smelling clean.
4. Wash dog food dishes with detergent daily to prevent bacterial growth. If your dog's food and water bowls are dishwasher safe, place them in the dishwasher where the high temperatures will kill bacteria.
Taking the time to prepare for the inevitable messes your dog will make is a good idea. Caring for a dog can be a lot of work, but it should be an enjoyable experience. By practicing common sense hygiene as discussed above you will help keep yourself healthy, and both you and your dog happy.
Sunday, December 3, 2006
The Perfect Freshwater Aquarium
By Tonia Jordan
A fish owner, you have the responsibility to create and maintain an ideal environment for your pet, and there are a few easy steps you can follow to do this.
Choosing a good tank:
Fish require enough space to swim and sufficient oxygen to live, both of which are controlled by the size of the tank. The number of fish you can keep in a tank depends on the surface area of the tank. To determine this, multiply the length of the tank by its width. This number will tell you the surface area in inches. Most fish keepers agree that one inch of freshwater fish needs 30 square inches of surface area.
A glass tank with silicon, rubber cement sealant is ideal. Glass does not scratch as easily as other surfaces, and glass tanks are generally designed with the purpose of housing living creatures, thereby making them non-toxic and the ideal environment for your fish. Be sure to purchase a tank that is not scratched and check for leaks before you create the habitat for your fish.
Placement of the tank:
Avoid direct sunlight when choosing a spot for your freshwater tank. Sunlight will affect the heat and algae growth within the tank. It is also a good idea to place the tank in an area of higher traffic through your home. This will help the fish become accustomed to people leaving and entering the room, thus making them less skittish around people.
Tank Stand:
It is also important to remember that water weighs 8.4 pounds per gallon. A 25 gallon tank will weigh 210 pounds. It is important to have adequate support for the tank. Choosing its location is important because once the tank is filled, it will be much more difficult to move.
Tank Hood:
There are several reasons that it is important to have a tank hood or cover. For one, it keeps your fish inside your tank, as they are quite capable of jumping out of the tank. Secondly, it keeps unwanted objects from falling into the tank, thus disrupting the fish’s environment. It also slows the evaporation rate of the water inside the tank, and prevents water from splashing onto nearby walls. In addition to these, the cover helps retain the heat of the water. It is ideal to purchase an aquarium that comes with a cover that is built to fit with the tank perfectly.
Choosing a tank for your fish is as important as choosing the fish themselves. To ensure a long and healthy life for your pet, do your best to provide the ideal living environment for them.
A fish owner, you have the responsibility to create and maintain an ideal environment for your pet, and there are a few easy steps you can follow to do this.
Choosing a good tank:
Fish require enough space to swim and sufficient oxygen to live, both of which are controlled by the size of the tank. The number of fish you can keep in a tank depends on the surface area of the tank. To determine this, multiply the length of the tank by its width. This number will tell you the surface area in inches. Most fish keepers agree that one inch of freshwater fish needs 30 square inches of surface area.
A glass tank with silicon, rubber cement sealant is ideal. Glass does not scratch as easily as other surfaces, and glass tanks are generally designed with the purpose of housing living creatures, thereby making them non-toxic and the ideal environment for your fish. Be sure to purchase a tank that is not scratched and check for leaks before you create the habitat for your fish.
Placement of the tank:
Avoid direct sunlight when choosing a spot for your freshwater tank. Sunlight will affect the heat and algae growth within the tank. It is also a good idea to place the tank in an area of higher traffic through your home. This will help the fish become accustomed to people leaving and entering the room, thus making them less skittish around people.
Tank Stand:
It is also important to remember that water weighs 8.4 pounds per gallon. A 25 gallon tank will weigh 210 pounds. It is important to have adequate support for the tank. Choosing its location is important because once the tank is filled, it will be much more difficult to move.
Tank Hood:
There are several reasons that it is important to have a tank hood or cover. For one, it keeps your fish inside your tank, as they are quite capable of jumping out of the tank. Secondly, it keeps unwanted objects from falling into the tank, thus disrupting the fish’s environment. It also slows the evaporation rate of the water inside the tank, and prevents water from splashing onto nearby walls. In addition to these, the cover helps retain the heat of the water. It is ideal to purchase an aquarium that comes with a cover that is built to fit with the tank perfectly.
Choosing a tank for your fish is as important as choosing the fish themselves. To ensure a long and healthy life for your pet, do your best to provide the ideal living environment for them.
Monday, November 27, 2006
Caring For A Dog: 5 Steps To Potty Training Success
by Michael Lewis
Potty training a dog is one of the most frustrating things you will have to do. Take heart in the fact that once your dog gets the potty training, you won't have to teach it again. In many ways, potty training can be rewarding too. Not only can you help your pets to stop making messes on your favorite carpeting, but you can develop a strong relationship of trust and bonding with them to.
Here are 5 steps to make potty training successful in your home.
1.Use a crate. Crate training is very effective. A crate is used to allow your pet to have a place to sleep and teaches them to control their bladder. They won't soil their bedding. Then, when it is time to get up and go out, you can easily do just that. The dog learns from the start that you control potty time.
2.After meals, give your pet 15 minutes and then take them out. Food is a trigger not only to eat but also to go. When it comes to potty training success, allow your pet to get outside when the urge is approaching. What's more is that you shouldn't leave food out. Put it down for them at the designated time and allow them to eat for 15 minutes to 30 minutes and remove the bowl. Soon he will learn and that again allows you to control potty time.
3.Pick a potty spot. Select the area of your yard that you want your pet to go in. Take them to that spot every time to go. This will help your puppy to learn that when he needs to go, he needs to come here. What's more is that the smell of urine is yet another trigger to your pet to go.
4.Don't reward them with food. Remember that rewards need to be emotional, and therefore it is more successful to give them a reward of a patting and rub down then it is for you to hand them a treat. Also, treats are food which triggers potty time again!
5.Reward success, but don't punish accidents. Although you will be angry and you will want to punish your pet, your pet does not see this as a bad thing. He sees it as attention. He also can become aggressive as well as not like to be around you. Dogs don't relate their potty mistake to the punishment you are given them. Instead, ignore them when they do something wrong. Don't speak to them or interact with them.
Caring for your dog is hard work, but when it comes to potty training, success can and will happen when you install these five tips into your program.
Potty training a dog is one of the most frustrating things you will have to do. Take heart in the fact that once your dog gets the potty training, you won't have to teach it again. In many ways, potty training can be rewarding too. Not only can you help your pets to stop making messes on your favorite carpeting, but you can develop a strong relationship of trust and bonding with them to.
Here are 5 steps to make potty training successful in your home.
1.Use a crate. Crate training is very effective. A crate is used to allow your pet to have a place to sleep and teaches them to control their bladder. They won't soil their bedding. Then, when it is time to get up and go out, you can easily do just that. The dog learns from the start that you control potty time.
2.After meals, give your pet 15 minutes and then take them out. Food is a trigger not only to eat but also to go. When it comes to potty training success, allow your pet to get outside when the urge is approaching. What's more is that you shouldn't leave food out. Put it down for them at the designated time and allow them to eat for 15 minutes to 30 minutes and remove the bowl. Soon he will learn and that again allows you to control potty time.
3.Pick a potty spot. Select the area of your yard that you want your pet to go in. Take them to that spot every time to go. This will help your puppy to learn that when he needs to go, he needs to come here. What's more is that the smell of urine is yet another trigger to your pet to go.
4.Don't reward them with food. Remember that rewards need to be emotional, and therefore it is more successful to give them a reward of a patting and rub down then it is for you to hand them a treat. Also, treats are food which triggers potty time again!
5.Reward success, but don't punish accidents. Although you will be angry and you will want to punish your pet, your pet does not see this as a bad thing. He sees it as attention. He also can become aggressive as well as not like to be around you. Dogs don't relate their potty mistake to the punishment you are given them. Instead, ignore them when they do something wrong. Don't speak to them or interact with them.
Caring for your dog is hard work, but when it comes to potty training, success can and will happen when you install these five tips into your program.
Sunday, November 26, 2006
Feeding Your Dog: What To & How Much
by Craig Williams
WHAT AND HOW MUCH TO FEED PUPS, TEENS, ADULTS, ACTIVE / SPORTING, DOMESTIC or STERILISED PET, WHELPING AND AGED dogs.
PER DAY GIVE AS FOLLOWS.
PUPS
(Up to 8 weeks) Give 4 small meals per day.
(8wks-6mths) Give 3 medium meals per day.
FEEDING YOUR PUPPY
Premium pet food tends to have higher nutritional value. In particular, foods such as Science Diet, Eukanuba, Nature's Recipe. This means you can generally feed your dog a smaller amount of food.
Also, they tend to be highly digestible which means that there is less waste to clean up in the yard. For these two reasons, many people feed their pets premium foods over grocery store foods. But the decision is yours and many healthy, happy dogs have been raised on plain Purina Dog Chow.
FEEDING SCHEDULES:
There are two methods you can use to feed your puppy:
FREE FEEDING and SCHEDULED FEEDING.
FREE feeding is when dry food is left out all day and the dog eats as it wishes. SCHEDULED feeding gives the dog food at set times of the day, and then takes it away after a period of time, such as a half hour.
Thursday, November 23, 2006
10 Steps to Finding the Perfect Dog Sitter
by Andi Wize
The flights are reserved, the bags packed and the kids are finally ready! But just as you're rushing out the door, you run into Fido with those big, sad puppy eyes. Oh NO, what about Fido?
When planning vacation and holiday getaways, our pets are often a forgotten, last-minute detail.
Next time, consider using a pet sitter. It allows your dog to stay in the comfort of their home and maintain their normal routine. These are things even well-meaning friends or family, and certainly kennels, cannot offer. Also, having a trusted pet sitter in your home can help protect your home from intruders.
But how do you find the perfect pet sitter? Start looking before your next trip and follow these 10 recommendations:
1. Personal Referrals. Ask trusted friends or family members if they can recommend a pet sitter they have used. Word-of-mouth is often the best reference.
2. The Interview. Set up a meeting in your home with each potential pet sitter. Watch how the sitter relates or interacts with your dog. Are they actively involved with the dog or are they distant or restrained around them? Does your dog want the pet sitter's attention? Don't second-guess your dog's reaction (or your own); if they don't seem engaged, move on.
3. Questions, Questions. The kind and volume of questions pet sitters ask will showcase their actual experience in caring for your particular breed of dog. A professional sitter will take notes; you should too. If they don't ask questions, cross them off your list!
4. Affiliations. Judging solely by an organization affiliation (such as PSI - Pet Sitters International or NAPPS - National Association of Professional Pet Sitters) is tempting. However, remember these national organizations do not know these individuals or their reputation. Instead, ask for local affiliations and follow-up.
5. Client References. Ask for other client references. These will help you get a clearer idea of what to expect if you hire this person.
6. Bonding & Insurance. Bonding and insurance protects you in the case of damage or theft of your property. However, is does NOT ensure that the pet sitter is reliable, caring or trustworthy.
7. The Dotted Line. Ask for a copy of their contract and carefully review the details later. A contract will protect you and your dog. It will also spell out exactly what you can and cannot expect from the pet sitter. It should also list the appropriate rates for all services offered. Do not hesitate to ask questions!
8. Arrange another visit. Arrange for the pet sitter to spend some alone time with your dog. A walk is a great idea. Monitor your dog's reaction; is he happy and comfortable with the pet sitter? Or does he seem eager to get away from them? This also gives the pet sitter a chance to see if they can appropriately handle your dog (particularly if the dog is a large-breed, strong or very energetic).
9. Listen to your gut! Finally, go with your gut feeling! If it doesn't "feel" right, it's not! Keep looking.
10. Before you leave. Leave detailed instructions (prepared earlier), phone number(s) in the event of an emergency, and your vet's name and number.
Investing your time in advance and following these steps will ensure the best possible pet sitting experience. So the next time you're making those early travel plans, remember to put Fido, and his pet sitter, on your checklist to avoid those big, sad puppy eyes!
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